RESTAURANT-REVIEWS

John Mueller has a new barbecue operation opening in Central Texas

Matthew Odam
John Mueller has a new barbecue operation opening in Jarrell, about 45 miles north of downtown Austin.

One of the most talented and inscrutable cooks in the Central Texas barbecue world is on the move once again.

Pitmaster John Mueller has partnered with two couples, Scott and Misty Murrah and Lynn and Cari Springfield, to develop the Granary, Featuring a John Mueller Joint, a barbecue, food truck and bar compound in Jarrell. The partners are developing 2 acres of land near Interstate 35 Exit 275 in the town about 45 miles north of downtown Austin. The property will include a forthcoming centerpiece silo, a bar, four food trucks and an indoor barbecue operation from the grandson of Louie Mueller.

John Mueller will cook his standard menu of beef ribs, pork ribs, brisket and sausage, with both pork and beef varieties. He’ll also serve his classic cheesy squash and has added creamy jalapeño slaw to his offerings.

Mueller had his first cook on the property last weekend and will pop up again at the location Sept. 17-20 for BBQ with My Buddies, a fundraiser for Noah Springfield’s 2020 Buddy Walk Team, benefiting the Down Syndrome Association of Central Texas.

The man who has cooked everywhere from Granger to South Austin over the past decade hopes to be up and running permanently by Oct. 1, with plans for the bar to be operational by November. Once open, the John Mueller Joint will serve from 11 a.m. until sold out on Thursday-Sunday. For now, guests will be allowed to BYOB. Mueller says he will offer updates on the opening at twitter.com/jsm_meat.

Mueller sees Jarrell as a town prime for opportunity, comparing it to Georgetown, 15 miles to the south, of a decade ago, and he’s looking forward to the opportunity.

“I love it. It’ll be fun. It’s featuring so many different things, with the beer taps and the bar and the food trucks and location,” Mueller said. “You look across the road and see nothing but cattle, and then you look across the other road and see nothing but interstate.”

The irascible and entertaining Mueller arrives at his new spot fresh off a 9-month stint at Granger City Brewing. Before Granger, Mueller operated Black Box Barbecue trailer in Georgetown for about three years. Granger Alderman Lynn Springfield, one of Mueller’s partners in the new venture, was the man who originally convinced Mueller to head to Granger last year.

This will be Mueller’s seventh Central Texas stop. He opened his original Austin spot in 2001 on Manor Road, which lasted until 2006. After battling some personal demons and leaving the city, Mueller returned in 2012 and opened a trailer on South First Street. It later relocated twice to locations in East Austin before Mueller headed up to Georgetown in 2017.

John Mueller, grandson of Louie Mueller, opened his first Austin restaurant in 2011.